Banderlog.com

[WETNWILD]

Well how do I tell the whole story without writing a book......ummm... I bought this boat out of so. Cal 5 or 6 yrs ago......Not long after I lost all oil pressure.... Had it rebuilt by a local machine shop that my Dad has built a lot of motors with..... Lost the cam the first time out.....Took it back to machine shop so they could fork lift it out (after I got it ready to come out of course) and they installed yet another comp cam.......the next two seasons I had a problem with the boat just dying.....It would just start back up....talking to people I ended up changing everything....nothing helped....To say the least, I didn’t get to run the boat much for those two seasons.......At the beginning of last summer, I decided to change the 3 wire ignition switch.....16 bux! And the boat never died last summer....So last summer was great with the boat! This summer, I go to the delta with a friend who has a day cruiser with an I/O and after running for a half hr or so......My boat started popping out of the exhaust after I hit about 4000rpm.....felt kind of sluggish also.....So I headed back to the ramp.....Got it home and guess what!!!! lost a lobe on the cam.....Damm near same lobe but this one was #3 cylinder exhaust.....So.......Two weeks ago, I slapped in a linati cam and lifters.....went to Modesto Res two Saturdays ago and the second time out it felt like it was getting slugest again......looked down at my oil pressure gauge and I barley had 7 pounds of oil pressure......I just got done today tearing into it and couldn’t believe that the bearings looked pretty good.....The oil pump however looks all chewed up inside....lots of scoring.......I also had a roller rocker that came off a push rod...the lifter and push rod look good but the rocker took an ass kickn......The roller and bearing still seem good...I think I can salvage it.......So I guess we’re going to plastic gauge everything and double check it all............Definitely installing a new oil pump...






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Jwillz

[SLEEKCRAFTER]

You can buy single rocker arms, and not a whole set, from most vendors.

Pull the motor apart, popp the cam bearings out, wash the block out, and install new cam bearings. When the cams go bad, they leave metal everywhere, ready to destruct the next cam and lifter.

With todays oils, this is becoming more of a problem. Zinc additives are a minimum to even, have a chance of cam/lifter survival....
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1979 19ft. Southwind Tunnel Dragster

The project.... http://www.banderlog.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5311



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[TIMINATOR]

Many BBFords and BBchevvs have lifter bore problems where the bores lean either foward or backward in relation to the cam. The bores must be straight to the cam because the cam is ground at a slight angle and the lifters are slightly crowned to allow the lifter to spin on the cam as it goes up and down. On one bank the angle helps the spin, on the other bank the inaccurate angle holds the lifter in the center of the lobe so it won't spin. These blocks will eat cam after cam unless they are BHJ lifter trued(too much cash outlay for a normal motor) or a roller cam is used. Look at the lifter track on the cam, the lifter should ride at the edge of the lobe on the flanks and base circle, and the track should widen out to cover almost the entire nose. If not, the block is trash. Also whenever installing a cam, always check to make sure that the lifter will slide and spin freely in its bore, if not it will usually kill that lobe soon. When replacing a cam and you add the break-in additive, remember that it is provided in an amount for a typical CAR 4-5 QUART PAN! NOT A 10 quart+ boat pan!!! Add double or more of the break-in additive as for car use and size of your pan. Break in with racing oil or shell rotella "T" oil. Add zinc additive with every oil change, again about double the amount provided for car use. BBFords have the highest rocker ratio, the longest and heaviest pushrods, and valves, and some of the worst lifter bore alignment of anything. Also check to make sure that the retainer clears the top of the guide and seal, a big problem for BBFords and BBChevies. TIMINATOR
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[WETNWILD]

Tim, I was wondering on the lifter bore also due to this being the second cam almost in the same area....A different local machine shop also said something regarding this when I was in there.... I would LOVE to drop in a BBC, but it’s not in the budget right now....I have temples for motor mounts already (rail Mounts) & water logs...... I’m slowing getting everything to make the switch....Just trying to get the boat through the summer.... Ohh and yes, the cam wear is just as you describe it. I will put a pic of it on here tomorrow due to the cam being at buddy’s garage..
Thanks for the help guys,
Jeff
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Jwillz

[WETNWILD]

Thanks sleek, I wasn’t sure if I had to but a whole new set of rockers or not...Good to know I don’t.

Thanks
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Jwillz

[058]

[TEAMGREEN]

Go Oldsmobile!!!!
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Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want

http://slambrunochoppers.com/

[WETNWILD]

I wasnt bagging on the BBF's. I know they are very reliable in most cases. I also know that chevys are known for loosing more cams. I just prefer BBC. But I would rather have a broken BBF any day before an Olds!
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Jwillz

[sleekvino]

spend the money and do what 058 said Bob knows his shit . plus the fact that you wont flatten the cam out. its worth the time and money. call Chris Struab and have him grind you one and get a set of Morell roller lifters to go with it. heres his link...
http://www.straubtechnologies.com/
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78 DAYTONA, 454, berkeley jg, droop, diverter

BOMBS + GUNS = PEACE

Team BFH

POWERSLAVE RACING INC.

[WETNWILD]

Will do, thanks
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Jwillz

[Squrtin Squeeek]

[quote="TEAMGREEN"]Go Oldsmobile!!!! [/quote


I'd rather have a Honda than a FERD or CHUBBY. I'll stick with Olds !!!
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www.ExtremeMichiganBoats.com

[76rogers]

EASY there squeeek, . . . its plenty enough for a select few of us to understand the inherent superiority of the OLDs powerplant,

no need to go mentioning the H word!
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olds, berkley, aggressor, place, set-back, shoe, rideplate

"ASE certified Master Mechanic", that means i wash my hands before i go to the bathroom.